Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifier

5 out of 5 stars 1 Reviews | 1 Q&A

Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifier

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5 out of 5 stars Rating: 5

1 Review | 1 Q&A

Product Overview

Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifer is a powerful dehumidifier that makes a big impact. It has been given great reviews to its power and efficiency at reducing moisture, mold, and mildew. The Santa Fe Classic is Energy Star Rated, reliable and durable and is ideal for basements, garages, workshops and more. This energy efficient dehumidifier can remove up to 110 pints per day.

Features include:

  • Quiet Operation Noise - Well engineered, powder-coated steel structure makes this dehumidifier one of the quietest on the market.
  • Low Temperature Operation - Working at temperatures that other dehumidifiers just can't handle, the Santa Fe Classic keeps working diligently.
  • Auto Restart - All Santa Fe dehumidifiers have automatic restart capability after any power outage. They even keep all the settings.
  • Large Capacity - The Santa Fe Classic can remove a large amount of moisture from the air, up to 110 pints a day out of a 2500 sq. ft. area, doing the job of several competing dehumidifiers.
  • Superior Air Filtration - Using MERV-13 filters, the Santa Fe Classic keeps working at full efficiency when other dehumidifiers would struggle on slowly.
  • High Energy Efficiency - All Santa Fe dehumidifiers exceed the Energy Star efficiency ratings.

How does Santa Fe prevent humidity from damaging your property? The Santa Fe dehumidifiers prevent mold, mildew and pests from ever growing, keeping your property safe from any damage these might cause and keep your home environment comfortable and healthy. 

All Santa Fe dehumidifiers work by using their refrigeration systems to collect the water from the surrounding air. The air is cooled so that the moisture condensates onto a coil, which collects and directs the water into the drain hose by the force of gravity. The dehumidified air is then used to help with the cooling process before being reheated and released through the exhaust vents on the sides of the dehumidifier.

Dehumidifiers are important because wet crawlspaces and basements are the main factor for the eventual destruction of floor joists, beams, insulation, and electrical and mechanical systems. Excessive moisture encourages the growth of mold on wood and on other organic material in crawl spaces. All these things lead to a large amount of damage to your property. This Classic dehumidifier will remove moisture from your basement or crawlspaces to prevent the growth of mildew, rust, mold, biological allergens, musty odors, bacteria and even dust mites and other pests. 

The EPA recommends keeping humidity levels below 50%, to keep all those issues from occurring. Just attach a tube to the water output valve, place the tube where you want it to go, plug the dehumidifier in and watch it go. The dehumidifier works in all environments as well, including wine cellars, gun vaults, home libraries, car collections, and historical homes.

Runs off of 700 watts on average and draws 6.4 amps while operating. The energy efficiency is 6.3 pints of water per kilowatt hour.

Two optional accessories provide the best flexibility in installation. 

  • Santa Fe Classic Duct Kit (includes 8" supply collar) (4021453). If you need to hide the dehumidifier in a closet and need to treat an adjoining room, this kit is for you. Even if you need to move air from one room to another, this kit has you covered. Check the Duct Kit attachment for more information.
  • Santa Fe Classic Pump Kit (4022220). If you need to move the water upward or you need to move the water a long distance, this accessory is for you. Energy efficient, only working when needed, this is a great add-on for the dehumidifier in a lot of situations. Check the Pump Kit attachment for more information.

Features and Specs

For use in Basements, Crawlspaces, Wine Cellars, Gun Vaults, Home Libraries, Car Collections, Historical Homes and other indoor humid areas.
Yield Holds 110 pints per day
Dimensions 20 inches wide by 36 inches high by 17 inches long and 110 lbs
Coverage Area 2500 sq. ft.
Voltage 115 volts
Hose Length (in.) 9/16 inches by 96 inches
Warranty 6 Year Limited Warranty:
2 Years Full Warranty Parts and Labor
3 to 6 Years Component Warranty - including (Compressor, Evaporator Coil, and Condenser Coil)
Parts Included Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifier, a 10-foot power cord, 4 caster wheels, a drain hose, a foam pre-filter, a MERV-11 filter and an owner's manual.
Shipping Weight 117.00 lbs
Manufacturer Santa Fe Dehumidifiers (Mfg. Number: 4029700)


Capacities for residential dehumidifers are measured in pints of water removed per day at standard conditions (80 degrees F and 60% RH) determined by the American Home Appliance Manufacturers. At these conditions, the capacity of the Santa Fe Classic is 110 pints per day as compared to 20 - 65 pints from standard residential units. However, most basements and crawlspaces are cooler than 80 degrees F so the water removal capacity of the standard unit will be lowered significantly. A large dehumidifier such as the Santa Fe Classic is necessary that moisture is removed at real world temperature of your crawlspace or basement to prevent mold, bacteria and mildew growth. This Santa Fe Classic is designed for these cooler applications.


The Santa Fe Classic is designed to be installed indoors and is ideal for unfinished and finished basements. The Santa Fe Classic is designed to operate in temperatures between 56° and 95°F. Temperatures outside of these ranges will affect dehumidifier performance.
In order to efficiently control the humidity levels, the area in which the dehumidifier is to be placed must be free of water intrusion or excessive fresh (outside) air infiltration. Before installing the Santa Fe Classic, water intrusion and air infiltration problems should be addressed.

In humid area, no ducting.

The simplest installation is to place the Santa Fe Classic in the humid area with no ducting. The air inlet on top and outlet on the side must be at least 1’ from walls and other obstructions to air flow.

In humid area, duct inlet and/or outlet.

If the humid are is very large or has high ceilings, dehumidification can be improved by adding an inlet and/or outlet duct to circulate and destratify stagnant areas. For a large area, add inlet or outlet ducting to create flow across the area’s greatest length. For areas with ceilings higher than 12’, use an inlet duct to draw warm, moist air from near the ceiling. See section 2.4 for attaching duct collars & ducting.

In A Remote Area, Duct Inlet & Outlet.

It is often desirable, especially in billiard rooms and finished areas, to install the Santa Fe Classic in an adjacent equipment room or unfinished area. Air is transferred between the humid room and the unit via ducting. The factory mounted humidity control on the Santa Fe Classic cabinet may not sense the humidity in the humid room accurately enough with this installation method. If so, an additional humidity control can be mounted in the humid room and wired to the Santa Fe Classic. Local electrical codes must be followed when wiring the control. Contact your local electrician to complete this install.

 In A Remote Area, Duct Outlet Only.

A simpler remote installation method than above uses ducting between the Santa Fe Classic discharge and the humid room; the Santa Fe Classic inlet draws air from the room in which it’s located. This works well if there is an adequate air flow path between the two rooms; i.e. high door undercut, louvered door or wall grill. This eliminates the need to remote mount the humidity control. There are several potential disadvantages to using this method. First, humid air is drawn into the room where the Santa Fe Classic is located. Second, to accurately sense humidity, the blower in the Santa Fe Classic may need to run continuously to draw air from the humid room into the Santa Fe Classic room. Third, a slight negative pressure is created in the room with the Santa Fe Classic which could back draft open combustion devices located there. If such devices are present, call the factory for specific instructions before using this installation method or consider the option below.

 In A Remote Area, Duct Inlet Only.

When the Santa Fe Classic is located in a room separate from the main area to be dehumidified, it may be desirable to dehumidify and/or slightly pressurize that room. Pressurization assures that open combustion devices do not back draft. This can be accomplished by installing a duct from the humid room to the Santa Fe Classic inlet and by allowing the Santa Fe Classic to discharge dehumidified air into the room in which it’s located. An adequate air flow path must exist between the two rooms for this method to work well. An additional humidity control may need to be mounted in the humid area and wired to the Santa Fe Classic to accurately maintain the desired humidity. Local electrical codes must be followed when wiring the control.

 Electrical Requirements

The Santa Fe Classic plugs into a common grounded outlet on a 15 Amp circuit. It draws between 6 and 7 Amps under normal operating conditions.

 Condensate Removal

Condensate drains by gravity via the clear hose extending from the unit. Route hose to a floor drain. Use care to keep the hose as flat to the floor as possible. Excessive humps or kinks will prevent proper drainage. If the Santa Fe Classic is located too far from a floor drain for the attached hose to reach, 1/2" PVC pipe can be used to extend it. It is commonly available in 10’ lengths from building supply, plumbing and hardware stores. It will slide tightly inside the end of the drain hose. If more than one length of pipe is required they can be joined with a short piece cut from the end of the drain hose.


 Optional Ducting

An inlet shroud with an 8" round collar and an 8" round exhaust collar are available from the factory that will allow round ducting to be attached to the inlet and/or outlet of the Santa Fe Classic.

 Ducting for Dehumidification

Ducting the Santa Fe Classic as mentioned in sections 2.1B-2.1E requires consideration of the following points:
Duct Sizing: For total duct lengths up to 25 feet, use a minimum 8" diameter round or equivalent rectangular. For longer lengths, use a minimum 10" diameter or equivalent. Grills or diffusers on the duct ends must not excessively restrict air flow. Isolated Areas: Effective dehumidification may require that ducting be branched to isolated, stagnant areas. Use 6" diameter branch ducting to each of two or three areas, use 4" to each of four or more areas.


Humidity Control Adjustment

The dehumidifier will run continuously until relative humidity (RH) is reduced to the humidity control dial setting. Setting the humidity control to lower RH levels will NOT increase the unit’s dehumidification rate, it will simply run longer to reduce the area’s RH to the setting. The Santa Fe Classic unit (and refrigerant based dehumidifiers in general) will reduce a warm space’s RH to a lower level than that of a cool space. For example, the Santa Fe Classic may reduce an 80° F space to 30% RH. However, if the same space is 65° F, it may only reduce it to 40% RH. It is therefore pointless to set the humidity control to excessively low levels in cool rooms. Doing so will result in long periods of ineffective dehumidifier run time. Quality humidity meters are available from your dealer or online and are recommended to accurately monitor humidity levels.

 Fan Switch

Turning “ON" the fan switch will cause the unit’s internal blower to run continuously, whether the unit is dehumidifying or not. This function is desirable if the unit is used for air circulation.


 Air Filter

The Santa Fe Classic is equipped with 2 air filters. A foam pre-filter followed by a standard MERV-11 65% efficient pleated fabric filter. These should be checked every three to six months. Operating the unit with dirty filters will reduce dehumidifier capacity and efficiency and may cause the compressor to cycle off and on unnecessarily on the defrost control. If dirty, the foam pre-filter can be vacuumed. The pleated fabric filter can generally be vacuumed clean several times before needing replacement. Replacement filters can be ordered from your dealer or online. DO NOT operate the unit without the filters or with a less effective filter. The heat exchange coils inside the unit could become clogged and require disassembly to clean.

If you need any other accessories for the Santa Fe Classic, we have it here for you. 



A warranty certificate has been enclosed with this unit. Read it before any repair is initiated.

Technical Description

The Santa Fe Classic uses a refrigeration system similar to an air conditioner’s to remove heat and moisture from incoming air, and add heat to the air that is discharged (see figure 1).

Hot, high pressure refrigerant gas is routed from the compressor to the condenser coil (see figure 1). The refrigerant is cooled and condensed by giving up its heat to the air that is about to be discharged from the unit. The refrigerant liquid then passes through a filter/drier and capillary tubing which cause the refrigerant pressure and temperature to drop. It next enters the evaporator coil where it absorbs heat from the incoming air and evaporates The evaporator operates in a flooded condition, which means that all the evaporator tubes contain liquid refrigerant during normal operation. A flooded evaporator should maintain constant pressure and temperature across the entire coil, from inlet to outlet. The mixture of gas and liquid refrigerant enter the accumulator after leaving the evaporator coil. The accumulator prevents any liquid refrigerant from reaching the compressor. The compressor evacuates the cool refrigerant gas from the accumulator and compresses it to a high pressure and temperature gas to repeat the process.


No dehumidification. Neither blower nor compressor run with fan switch “FAN AUTO”.

1. Unit unplugged or no power to outlet.
2. Humidity control set too high or defective (Sec. 3.1 & 5.7).
3. Loose connection in internal wiring. 

No dehumidification. Compressor does not run but blower runs with fan switch “FAN AUTO” and humidity control turned to ON (all the way clockwise).

1. Defective compressor or compressor run capacitor (Sec. 5.6).
2. Loose connection in compressor circuit (see Fig. 2).
3. Defective compressor overload (Sec. 5.6A).
4. Defective compressor (Sec. 5.6).
5. Defrost thermostat open (Sec. 5.8).

Blower runs with fan switch “FAN AUTO”, but compressor cycles ON & OFF.

1. Low ambient temperature and/or humidity causing unit to cycle through defrost mode.
2. Defective compressor overload (Sec. 5.6A).
3. Defective compressor (Sec. 5.6).
4. Defrost thermostat defective (Sec. 5.8).

Blower runs with fan switch “FAN AUTO”, but compressor cycles ON & OFF.
1. Low ambient temperature and/or humidity causing unit to cycle through defrost mode.
2. Defective compressor overload (Sec. 5.6A).
3. Defective compressor (Sec. 5.6).
4. Defrost thermostat defective (Sec. 5.8).

Blower does not run with fan switch in either position. Compressor runs briefly but cycles ON & OFF.

1. Loose connection in blower circuit (see Fig. 2).
2. Obstruction prevents impeller rotation.
3. Defective blower.
4. Blower switch defective.

Evaporator coil frosted continuously, low dehumidifying capacity.

1. Defrost thermostat loose or defective (Sec. 5.8).
2. Low refrigerant charge.
3. Dirty air filter or air flow restricted.

Refrigerant Charging

If the refrigerant charge is lost due to service or a leak, a new charge must be accurately weighed in. If any of the old charge is left in the system, it must be removed before weighing in the new charge. Refer to the unit nameplate for the correct charge weight and refrigerant type.

Blower Replacement

The centrifugal blower has a PSC motor and internal thermal overload protection. If defective, the complete assembly must be replaced.
1. Unplug the power cord.
2. If an outlet duct is connected to the unit, remove it.
3. Remove the cabinet side.
4. Remove the 4 screws holding the electrical box located next to the blower.
5. Disconnect the blower leads. Black from the blower switch, and white from the run capacitor.
6. Unbolt the blower capacitor from the blower motor (required for removal clearance).
7. Remove the nuts & bolts holding the blower outlet flange to the cabinet end and remove the blower.
8. Reassembling with the new blower is the above procedure reversed.

Compressor/Capacitor Replacement

This compressor is equipped with a two terminal external overload run capacitor, but no start capacitor or relay (see Fig. 2).

ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD: Electrical power must be present to perform some tests; these tests should be performed by a qualified service person.

Checking Compressor Motor Circuits

Perform the following tests if the blower runs but the compressor does not with the blower switch OFF and the humidity control ON.
1. Unplug the unit, remove the cabinet side (with two screws in center) and the electrical connection cover on the compressor top.
2. Plug in the unit and turn the humidity control to ON. Check for 110 volts from compressor terminal R to overload terminal 3 using an AC voltmeter. If voltage is present, go to step 3. If no voltage, the high pressure control or relay are open or there is a loose connection in the compressor circuit. Test each component for continuity; see the appropriate section if a defect is suspected.
3. Unplug the unit, then disconnect the red and yellow wires from compressor terminals R & S. Using an ohmmeter, check continuity between the points listed below.

4. Compressor terminals C and S: No continuity indicates an open start winding. The compressor must be replaced. Normal start winding resistance 3 to 7 ohms.
5. Compressor terminals C and R: No continuity indicates an open run winding. The compressor must be replaced. Normal run winding resistance is .5 to 2 ohms.
6. Compressor terminal C and overload terminal 1: No continuity indicates a defective overload lead.
7. Overload terminals 1 and 3: If there is no continuity, the overload may be tripped. Wait 10 minutes and try again. If there is still no continuity, it is defective and must be replaced.
8. Compressor terminal C and compressor case: Continuity indicates a grounded motor. The compressor must be replaced.
9. Disconnect the yellow wires from the capacitor. Set the ohmmeter to the Rx1 scale. The capacitor is shorted and must be replaced if continuity exists across its terminals. If there is no needle movement with the meter set on the Rx100000 scale, the capacitor is open and must be replaced.
10. Reconnect the wires to the compressor and capacitor. Plug in and turn on the unit. If the compressor fails to start, replace the run capacitor.
11. If the unit doesn’t start, adding a hard-start kit (relay & capacitor) will provide greater starting torque. If this doesn’t work, the compressor has an internal mechanical defect and must be replaced.

Replacing a Burned Out Compressor
The refrigerant and oil mixture in a compressor is chemically very stable under normal operating conditions. However, when an electrical short occurs in the compressor motor, the resulting high temperature arc causes a portion of the refrigerant oil mixture to break down into carbonaceous sludge, a very corrosive acid and water. These contaminants must be carefully removed otherwise even small residues will attack replacement compressor motors and cause failures.
The following procedure is effective only if the system is monitored after replacing the compressor to insure that the clean up was complete.
1. This procedure assumes that the previously listed compressor motor circuit tests revealed a shorted or open winding. If so, cautiously smell there frigerant from the compressor service port for the acid odor of a burn out.
2. Remove and properly dispose of the system charge. DO NOT vent the refrigerant indoors or allow it to contact your eyes or skin.
3. Remove the burned out compressor. Use rubber gloves if there is any possibility of contacting the oil or sludge.

4. To facilitate subsequent steps, determine the type of burn out that occurred. If the discharge line shows no evidence of sludge and the suction line is also clean or perhaps has some light carbon deposits, the burn out occurred while the compressor was not rotating. Contaminants are therefore largely confined to the compressor housing. A single installation of liquid and suction line filter/driers will probably clean up the system. If sludge is evident in the discharge line, it will likely be found in the suction line. This indicates the compressor burned out while running. Sludge and acid has been pumped throughout the system. Several changes of the liquid and suction filter/driers will probably be necessary to cleanse the system.
5. Correct the system fault that caused the burn out. Consult the factory for advice.
6. Install the replacement compressor with a new capacitor and an oversized liquid line filter. In a running burn out, install an oversized suction line filter/drier between the accumulator and compressor. Thoroughly flush the accumulator with refrigerant to remove all trapped sludge and to prevent the oil hole from becoming plugged. A standing burn out does not require a suction line filter/drier.
7. Evacuate the system with a good vacuum pump and accurate vacuum gauge. Leave the pump on the system for at least an hour. An alternate method of removing moisture and non-condensibles from the system requires evacuation to 29" Hg vacuum. Then break the vacuum with 35 to 50 PSIG refrigerant vapor charge. Leave the vapor charge in the system from at least 5 minutes before removing it. Repeat the vapor charge/wait/remove sequence twice more and then charge the system with the quantity and refrigerant listed on the nameplate.
8. Operate the system for a short period of time, monitoring the suction pressure to determine that the suction filter is not becoming plugged. Replace the suction filter/drier if pressure drop occurs. If a severe running burn out has occurred, several filters/driers may have to be replaced to remove all of the acid and moisture.

NOTE: NEVER use the compressor to evacuate the system or any part of it.

Replacing a Compressor - Nonburn Out

Remove the refrigerant from the system. Replace the compressor and liquid line filter/drier. Charge the system to 50 PSIG and check for leaks. Remove the charge and weigh in the refrigerant quantity listed on the nameplate. Operate they system to verify performance.

Humidity Control
The humidity control is an adjustable switch that closes when the relative humidity of the air in which it is located rises to the dial set point. It opens when the RH drops 4 to 6% below the set point.

 Defrost Thermostat
The defrost thermostat is attached to the refrigerant suction tube between the accumulator and compressor. It will automatically shut the compressor off if the low side
refrigerant temperature drops due to excessive frost formation on the evaporator coil. The blower will continue to run, causing air to flow through the evaporator coil and melt the ice. When the ice has melted, the evaporator temperature will rise and the thermostat will restart the compressor.

Refer to Manual for full instructions.

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  • 5 of 5 Stars

    Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifier

    By Charles on 09/22/2017

    We have eight dehumidifiers running in our mini storage climate controlled buildings. Of the eight units we have running, four are Santa Fe Classic. Santa Fe Classics are my favorite because they do a good job and I seldom have a problem with them. I would highly recommend them to anyone who is serous about keeping their humidity controlled to 40 to 50%.

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    6 of 6 people found this review helpful

Questions & Answers

Have a question about this product?
What recommendations do you have for leaking Sante Fe Classic Dehumidifier?

Water drips from frame yet tube is not plugged in and ice forms on bottom of grill above drip box.

We recommend contacting the manufacturer Sante Fe directly at 1-800-533-7533 to troubleshoot this specific dehumidifier.

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0 of 6 people found this answer helpful

Santa Fe Classic Dehumidifier 5 out of 5 stars Rating: 5 (1 Reviews / 1 Q&A)

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