Bora-Care and Timbor are both borate products used to treat wood, but they could not be more different. Timbor is in a powder form that is mixed with water. It is much less expensive but it is intended more for protecting new wood only, or wood that you know does not have any issues. Timbor will only penetrate the outer layer of the wood so it is more for protection or for treating fungus on the surface of the wood.
If you have an active infestation of termites, powder-post beetles or wood borers deep inside the wood then Timbor would not make it through the wood to kill these insects. BoraCare is a liquid borate but has an additive, a glycol solution, which allows the product to penetrate through the entire piece of wood, therefore it should be used any time you have an active infestation because you are guaranteed it will kill anything in the wood no matter how deep it is. Also, BoraCare will last forever in the wood so you will never have to worry about any infestations in the wood that you treat ever again.
Just to recap if you have an existing infestation, you should use Bora-Care. If you are just treating wood to be used in new construction or surface fungus, then Timbor is fine to use. Both products are very safe, virtually odorless and do not require respirators unless you are in a enclosed space with no ventilation. You should always wear gloves and protect your eyes anytime you apply pesticides or herbicides. All you need to apply either product is a one or two gallon hand pump sprayer. Timbor is used at 1.5 lbs of Timbor to each gallon of water. Bora-Care is mixed 1:1, one gallon of Bora-Care to one gallon of water which will make two finished gallons. Both products should be mixed in a 5 gallon bucket and then poured in your sprayer to use. We sell these products to homeowners every day and they are very successful treating their issues and you can have great success too. Remember that we are always here to help. Good Luck!
Since you have droppings then that means dry wood termites is your issue and you probably live in CA or FL. If you see droppings then there are "kick out"holes which you should be able to find on the wood where the termites that are inside the wood are kicking out their pellets onto the floor. This will help you zero in on the wood that you are treating.
Both Termidor SC (fipronil for termites) and Bora-Care will work, but Bora-Care is typically the better one to use for this situation. Termidor SC is not a wood treatment product, so for it to work you have to drill holes EXACTLY where the termites are and it has to touch the termites to work. If you miss where they are, it will not work. Also, Termidor SC does not really have any residual in the wood, so after you treat inside the wood with Termidor SC and it dries, that wood is exposed for future termite and beetle infestations.
Termidor: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/termidor-sc-p-184.html
Bora-Care is usually the preferred choice if most of the wood is exposed and it is raw wood you are treating, meaning it is not painted, stained, or sealed, it is just normal wood. Bora-Care is made only for wood, and you do not have to know exactly where the termites are for it to work which is a plus. Bora-Care is sprayed evenly over all exposed surfaces of the wood and actually penetrates through the entire piece of wood. When the termites in the wood try to consume the wood after it has been treated, they ingest the Bora-Care with the wood and die. No matter where they are in the wood the Bora-Care will find them as long as you treated the exposed wood that you can see. The other main benefit is that Bora-Care stays in the wood forever, so you will not have to worry about termites or beetles infesting the wood that you treated ever again.
Bora-Care: http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/boracare-p-100.html
Yes, Boracare can (and in many instances MUST) be used on pressure treated wood. As a termite barrier under Section VI of the label it is required to be applied twice to exterior wall sill plate and that is always pressure treated.
All pressure treated wood that is cut or drilled MUST have a field treatment or end cut application in order to meet building code (including sill plate in a home - see IRC 2016 and AWPA Standard M4).
It is also useful to treat pressure treated wood as the heartwood is not treated properly by pressure treatment (especially refractory species such as Douglas fir, and the transition wood of pine decking is often the first to rot out and will greatly benefit from a treatment with Boracare with Moldcare at 5 years (see Lloyd et al., 2013).
Posts, piles and poles also have the heartwood issue and can be treated but this is often best done with Jecta.
Application Technique: Injection holes (typically 7/64" or 1/8" in diameter) should be drilled in the area of suspected or known infestation. Drill the holes through the widest dimension of the wood that is available. Holes should extend approximately 3/4 of the way into the beam. If the widest surface is not accessible, holes can be drilled approximately 8-10 inches apart into a narrower surface. Press and hold the injection tip firmly into each hole and inject Boracare until runoff is observed from other holes, galleries, kick-out holes, etc. You may get splash back if the wood is solid. Release the trigger, wait briefly and withdraw the injection tip. Excess solution can be absorbed with paper towels and disposed of in ordinary trash. The holes should be in a diamond pattern and be spaced approximately 4-6 inches across the grain and 12-16 inches along the grain (Figure 1). When possible, the wood should be treated one diamond length pattern beyond the immediate area of visible infestation.