Rackmaster Durana White Clover is the latest white clover available for management of whitetail deer. When at the University of GA, Dr. Joe Bouton developed Durana to tolerate acidic soils, endure under grazing stress, to tolerate situations with low management, and to aggressively compete with grasses and weeds. Coming in two sizes, the 5 lb bag is perfect for drawing out deer and other animals while hunting, as it will cover up to 1 acre of land, while the 25 lb bag is great for planting cattle pastures and other grazing areas, covering up to 5 acres of land.
Dissimilar to ladino clover, Durana is an intermediate white clover, with leaves that are medium sized and a thick leaf density from the top to the ground to help deter invasion of weeds. Durana contains a high stolon density at 97 stolons per sq. ft. It is lime coated and pre inoculated for excellent nitrogen fixation and for making seeding easy. Outlasts typical ladino clovers in plots and in soils that are good at holding moisture, Durana will prevail for years to come. Contains over 25% protein level and over 75% digestibility, Durana White Clover will make an superb pure stand or combo planting for any food plot to attract feed, and keep deer on the property.
Planting: Method: Choose a site that receives a minimum of 6 - 8 hours of full sun. Prepare a smooth, firm seedbed by plowing and dragging the soil. Fertilizer and lime should be applied during this process to mix and incorporate it into the soil. Broadcast seed at the recommended rate evenly across the soil surface with a seeder designed for sowing small seed. Use a light drag, culti-packer or similar roller device following seed application to cover the seed. The use of a culti-packer or roller after seeding ensures good seed/soil contact which improves stand emergence. Seed can be also drilled with a no-till planter equipped with a small seed hopper, but care should be taken to prevent seed from being planted too deep. Seeding Dates - South: September – November 15 ...may be frost seeded in February to early March in some locations. Upper South: September - November 1 ...may be frost seeded in late February to mid-March or spring planted in April - early May. North: August 15 – October 1 ...may be frost seeded in March or spring seeded in April – May Seeding Rate: 5 lbs. /acre (2 oz. /1000 sq.ft.) for a pure stand; 2-3 lbs./acre (.75-1.0 oz./1000 sq.ft.) if planted in mixes; Depth: 1/8” maximum (stand failures will result from seed planted too deep). Fertilizer: Soil testing is highly recommended. Liming to a pH of 6.0-6.5 and providing adequate levels of potassium and phosphorus are necessary to ensure a productive clover stand. See your local county extension office for soil sampling assistance. In the absence of a soil test, apply 300 lbs./acre 0-20-20 (7 lbs./1000 sq. ft.) or an equivalent fertilizer and 1 ton/acre ag lime (50 lbs./1000 sq. ft.). Note: Only fertilizers containing zero or small percentages of nitrogen (5% or less) should be used to establish pure stands of clover. Apply fertilizer just prior to seeding. If practical, apply lime a minimum of 3 months before planting. Inoculant: Durana seed come pre-inoculated with selected Rhizobia strains of bacteria for optimal root nodulation and nitrogen fixation.
Special Note: Aggressive volunteer winter annual forages such as ryegrass should be controlled/suppressed with appropriate herbicides to allow the clover to establish.
Management: Soil fertility – For newly established food plots, collect soil samples annually for the first three years to closely monitor soil pH and soil nutrient content. Once pH and soil fertility have reached adequate levels, soil sample every 3 years to monitor soil nutrient levels. Apply lime to maintain a soil pH of 6.2 to 6.5. Add phosphorous and potassium fertilizer according to soil test recommendations. Only fertilizers containing zero or small percentages of nitrogen (5% or less) should be used on pure stands of clover. Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizer leads to poor nitrogen fixation, increased incidence of clover disease and greater weed competition. Weed control - Broadleaf weeds including pigweed, ragweed, coffeeweed, etc. along with weedy grasses such as crabgrass, signalgrass, panicums, johnsongrass and others may become problematic in clover food plots. Plots should be mowed periodically to keep unwanted weeds and grasses in check. When mowing, set the mower to remove no more than the top 1/3 of the clover foliage. Note that taller broadleaf weeds may have 50% or more of their foliage removed by the mowing operation. Chemical weed and grass control - If a height differential exists between weeds and the clover, glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup. can be applied with a wiper or rope-wick type of device to weeds growing above the clover canopy. Do not allow this herbicide mixture to come into contact with the clover foliage. A selective herbicide that only controls grassy weeds can be broadcast over pure clover stands to kill or suppress annual and perennial grasses. Extension weed control recommendations in some states include the use of low rates of 2,4-D amine (1pt/A or less) on well-established stands of perennial white clover to control/suppress many broadleaf weeds when they are less than 3 inches in height. (Consult with the local university extension office for local herbicide recommendations and rates.) To minimize clover injury, herbicides should be applied when clover is free from drought and heat stress. Control damaging insects – Monitor clover food plots at least every 2-3 weeks throughout the summer months for damaging worm presence. If worms are found and foliage feeding damage is significant, an appropriate insecticide should be applied. The local university extension office can provide information on treatment thresholds and recommended insecticides for worms on clover.
Special Note: When using pesticides, carefully read and follow all label guidelines for mixing, applying and personal safety. If applying herbicides, extreme care should be taken to avoid overlapping the spray and to also prevent herbicide drift or accidental application to any desirable plants, trees and shrubs adjacent to the target area being sprayed.
Tips for Successful Food Plots:
1. Every successful food plot begins with a soil test. Most woodland soils have low pH and low fertility. A soil test will tell you how much fertilizer and lime is needed. Information on taking a soil test can be obtained from your local county extension office.
2. Spend the extra time necessary to properly prepare the soil by plowing, smoothing and firming the ground. Planting on a weed free, smooth and firm seedbed that allows good seed-soil contact is essential for a thick, productive forage stand.
3. Plant seed at the proper seeding depth. Planting too shallow or too deep can result in stand failure. Seed mixes containing small seeded legumes and forbs should not be seeded deeper than ¼ inch. Use a cultipacker, log or a light drag to firm the soil after planting.
4. When selecting a wildlife food plot site, choose an area that is long and narrow with curves or bends in it. This provides a sense of comfort and safety for wildlife. When developing food plots, a good rule of thumb is to plant 2.5 to 7 acres of food plots for every 100 acres of habitat.
5. Avoid droughty sites such as eroded hillsides or shallow, rocky soils. Southwest facing slopes are hotter in the summer and tend to dry out faster than bottom land.
6. A minimum of 50% full sunshine is essential for a healthy and productive food plot. Morning sun is better than afternoon sun for summer game food plots. The reverse is generally true in the winter.
I'm very happy with the results of planting Pennington Rackmaster White Clover. I had a soil sample analyzed and added the needed line & fertilizer. Also, this is the 2nd food plot that I have this seed and couldn't be happier with the results.
Got a soil sample, did everything that was recommended and racked the seed in per instructions.
Prettiest patch of weeds you would ever want to see. Been extremely hot with long dry spell so I’m not giving up yet.