How It Works:

Roaches, crickets, silverfish, firebrats, and earwigs discover the bait while foraging and eat it and die. Worker ants cannot eat solid food, so they pick up the bait and take it back to the nest and feed it to the larvae. The larvae digest solid food and excrete liquid food for the rest of the colony.

Outdoor Perimeter Application:

• Apply bait at a rate of 1/2 – 1 oz (2 - 4 tablespoons) per 100 square feet. Use a hand shaker to apply the bait.
• Apply in a band from 1 - 3 feet wide around the perimeter of buildings. For example, a 2 foot band around a 200 linear foot building would require 8 – 16 tablespoons (1/2 – 1 cups) of bait. Also apply around exterior light fixtures and along the edges of sidewalks, patios and driveways and under decks.
• Pay particular attention to potential insect harborage sites such as mulch beds, flowerbeds, fruit and vegetable gardens, compost heaps, wood piles, trees, stumps and trash areas and apply bait at the more liberal application rate in these areas.
• In home greenhouses, apply bait on and under benches. Do not apply bait directly in flats or pots. Pets may be attracted to this product. Do not pile the bait in exposed areas.
• The bait may also be sprinkled in and around rodent bait stations to control insects that harbor in these stations.
• When treating for ants, apply 1⁄2 to 1 oz of bait around ant mounds and sprinkle along foraging trails. For ants, pay particular attention to harborage areas and apply bait around trees and stumps, in tree cavities, in and around firewood piles, around landscaping stones and in mulch beds. Ants can take the bait back to the nest and kill the colony. Bait may also be applied in insect bait stations. Reapply bait after one week if infestation is still present.
• To prevent large insect populations from developing around structures in warm months, a quarterly application around the perimeter and to harborage areas, as described above, is recommended. This treatment is particularly effective to help prevent the establishment of large colonies of pest ants. If the perimeter is treated with a repellent insecticide (eg. pyrethroid), the bait may still be used around the perimeter, but it should be applied in a band outside the repellent barrier for best results.
• As a separate matter from the use of this product, as part of an IPM program, it is recommended that overhanging trees and other vegetation touching the structure be trimmed back, and cracks or gaps around pipes and window and door frames be sealed to minimize potential insect entry into buildings.

Turf Application:

Apply bait evenly over the affected area using a hand shaker at a rate of 4 – 8 oz per 1000 square feet. The product should not be watered in. For mole cricket treatments, results will be best if the area is irrigated prior to bait treatment. Mole crickets typically come to the surface to feed in the evening.

Indoor Application:

• Apply bait only in areas inaccessible to children and pets, or in tamper-resistant bait stations. Use a hand shaker or duster to apply bait.
• Apply up to 0.5 oz (2 tablespoons) per crack, crevice or void, or at a rate of 0.5 oz (2 tablespoons) per 100 sq ft. Trash closets, utility closets, dropped ceilings, under and behind appliances and vending machines, in wall voids and voids under and behind cabinets, sinks and tubs, in drawer wells, garbage chutes, pipe chases, elevator pits, around drains, around electrical conduits and in cracks and crevices where insects may harbor.
• Focus application in areas where insects or their signs are seen. Reapply bait after one week if infestation is still present.
• The bait may be broadcast in unfinished attics, basements and crawlspaces provided children do not have access to these areas.

Application tips for certain sites follow:

1. In attics, be sure to get bait near the eaves and vent pipes where insects often first enter, as well as around any pipes or potential access points between the attic and the main structure. Attics should have proper ventilation to insure that no food odor from the bait seeps into the living area, particularly in hot weather. If in doubt, apply the product in a manner such that it can be easily removed.
2. When treating cabinetry areas, if there is no gap between the lower cabinets and the kickplate, then small holes can be drilled to access the voids. Escutcheon plates around pipes can also be pulled back to allow access to voids.
3. The bottom drawers in kitchen and bathroom cabinets can be removed and bait dusted into drawer wells. No bait should be left exposed when drawers are replaced.
4. Electrical switch plate covers can be removed to allow access to voids, but bait shouldn’t be applied directly in electrical boxes.
5. If there are cracks between baseboards, cabinets, doorframes, hinges, counters or trim, and walls, these cracks can be lightly dusted with bait. If practical, these areas can be sealed once insect problems have been eliminated, to help prevent future problems.
6. Insects need moisture, so kitchen and bath areas and areas immediately surrounding them, and any other damp areas should be carefully inspected and treated if necessary. As a separate matter from the use of this product, as part of an IPM program, it is advisable to fix any leaks to minimize structural damage and odors, and to prevent potential chronic insect problems.